Monday 26 February 2007

Casablanca, Morocco

海边的清真寺 -- 卡萨布兰卡

选择来到摩洛哥旅行,是因为卡萨布兰卡在这里。向往来到卡萨布兰卡这座城市,是因为《卡萨布兰卡》这部老片子。许久许久以前看过的,那首老歌还会常常去听,可是影片情节已大都不记得了,依稀还有些印象的是,是曾经被感动着流泪,影片中的旧式罗曼帝克。

眼前的卡萨布兰卡,已是一个走向国际化的大都市,想在卡萨布兰卡重温一下《卡萨布兰卡》这部影片,可是当地朋友更愿意谈及的是,摩洛哥与中国的友好关系以及互促的经济发展。

情非所愿,无可奈何之下,在朋友陪伴下去参观了那座海边的清真寺。

去过中东一些国家,清真寺自然也见过不少了。可是第一眼看见 Hassan II Mosque,还是被它的壮观镇惊了。
从出租车走出来,远远望去,在广场的另一端,是月亮星星尖顶的清真寺,而后面,就是久违了的海。而在另一边,白色的灯塔在不远处的小山丘上。

当地的朋友告诉我,这座清真寺花费了五六年的时间才竣工,造价不菲,至今还在不断维修之中,是靠提高摩洛哥国税来筹集的修建费用。所以可以说这座清真寺是摩洛哥全国人民出资建造的。这似乎也是Hassan II,这位前任国王留下的最大的“丰功伟绩“了。

包上头巾,走进寺里,并不是这儿清真寺的要求,只是个人的一个习惯,做为对一个宗教信仰的尊重,就好像我会穿上莎丽走进印度庙里一样。寺中简单点说,可以就用富丽堂皇四个字来形容。

(唉,太累了,不想写了,以下用图片来介绍,宋啊!你什么时候才能把照片全部传给我?我等到花儿也谢了!!!!!)

(唉,太累了,不想写了,以下用图片来介绍...)



海滩


走出清真寺,依旧是蓝天,白云,大海。


大门


吊顶


local market: spice shop


sunset (on the train from Casa to Marrakech)

Sunday 25 February 2007

Fes, Morocco

Met a funny taxi driver with poor driving skills and totally don't know the direction at all. reverse whole way until end of road, drive at opposite side of one way traffic, a few times I was worried he was going to crash the car next to us. I couldn't wait anymore to ask him whether this is his first day of driving, i tried to ask him in a polite way, "are you from Fes?" then he answered, "no, I am from Casablanka."


Royal palace in Fes: there are Royal palaces for the king in every city in Morocco. All are rich decorated. the front door of Fes Royal palace is painted in golden color and decorated with mossaic.




The blue gate: entry to Medina (old city). we almost lost in the big souk which like a Labyrinth. some of the road is so narrow that we have to squeeze in/out like a fish.


Tannerie (the place dyed leather):I was told the locals use pigeon shit to soft goat skin, that is where the strong odour from. not so sure how true it is, some of the book says the smell is from the animal urine in dyeing tank, some believes animal urine can make color stays longer and brighter on leather.


Nijerim square and Nijerim fountain, one of the must-see in Fes. but why it is a must-see?


A mosque in praying time


handcraft men

Saturday 24 February 2007

Chefchaouen, Morocco

the small hillstation is totally painted in white and blue. Walking in Chefchuan is like walking along the sky, while clouds passing by.

Don't know who's brilliant idea first to start paint the town in cold colors, compare to dull muddy pinkish Marrakech, Chefchuan is a peaceful and lazy town. Indeed people are friendly here. An old man was trying to sell the hat to me, instead of chasing behind and trying to make tourist annoyed, his selling strategy is siting in another tea house which is near to the restaurant we were having lunch, enjoyed the sun and tea, at meanwhile smiling at us and wave his hats.





Notice: Chefchuan is near to Tangier so near to Spain. a lot of people travel here for drugs as well. we were been offered drugs a few times.

Friday 23 February 2007

Rissani - Errachidia, Morocco

1. Kashbah: we went to ask road from a local woman, because my Arabic only limit to a few words, we don't how much she understood me, in the end, she guided us to her house in Kashbah and showed us around.
the Kashbah was build by Jewish dated 600 - 800 years back, the Jewish architect must be the greatest animal protectors at that time , because they were not only build houses for the human being, also left shelter and holes for pigeon, cat, dog and sheep.

2. Moroccan Pizza: a huge big round thin bread with minced lamb and onion and spece stuffed in.( 3 - 4 persons size)

3. Hammam: because no shower or bath for 3 days since dessert trip, we went to Hammam in er-rachidia. Hammam is the Arabic bath, like a kind of the public bathroom. well, the whole bathroom was boiled to see two naked Chinese girls. We had massage from a fat old lady, but I was in doubt whether she was doing massage or attempting to rub off one layer of my skin.

Thursday 22 February 2007

Merzouga, Morocco





We had a relaxing morning in Auberge Solei Bleu hotel, as the Dessert trip is only start at 3pm. so lying down inside the cushion and having mint tea with Berber people.




the sand-dune is not too far away from the hotel, after about 10 minutes camel riding, we saw the san dunes. After another half hour, the local people pointed to us the biggest sand dune. It looks around 200 - 300 hundreds meters high, but one of our camping group-mate told us, he has seen bigger sand dune in another Africa country, so probably this is the biggest in Morocco. Temperature dropped dramatically in the night. But still worth to be chilled than stay inside tent. As stars are just in front when eyes open. sky is amazingly clear with numerous stars. Probably because no other light source here. Local people even able to tell which one is satellite. I saw shooting star passed by, unfortunately they are too fast left no enough time to make wish.

There is a residential cat in camp: yes, a cat in deep dessert. My guide, Bari told me, norman people (one of the tribe people living in dessert) used to shift from one place to another place, but sometimes, their cat won't willing to move, they may come back to old tent no matter how far away. That is probably why this cat is here, Enjoy her lonely and well nutritious life in Sahara, she is surprisingly clean and well fed. It seems she obtains sympathy from all of the tourists whoever stay here. A smart cat indeed!

Tuesday 20 February 2007

Ouarzazate, Morocco

Ouarzazate (pronounce "warzazat"), is the base city to explore nearby desert. we wake up early morning in Marrakech, it was heavy rainy, can't believe we are in an African country which suppose to be shortage of water. but when we were on the local bus to Ouarzazate, it became even worse, it is like raining tiger and lion outside bus, and raining cat and dog inside bus. when the bus started to cross the Atlas, heavy rainy became heavy snow. There was a traffic accident in front of us, a lorry crashed a car at a corner on the mountain road, so we have to wait in traffic.

Eventually we arrived Ouarzazate in the late night after 4 hours delay, I went to the souk in the Centre Velle to buy a pair of socks. the souks is very small compare with the giant souks in Marrakech. Not much tourist at winter time, so the shop owners showed great interested trying to sell me some strange goods. After they tried a great effort to explain to me by using four different languages (Arabic, French, English and Japanese), I finally understood something.
for example:
1. the black colored smelly jelly is kind of massage soap which can help slim and shape body (so there is one box in my bathroom now)
2. the silver color shiny stone is a kind of natural perfume (I didn't buy because already bought some perfume in the airport),
3. the bunch of stem and dried leaves are another natural product: they are tooth brush (After went back home, I tried to brush teeth resulted in I have to rinse mouth a dozen times in order to get rid of sand, so I throw them away after first usage).
.....
After finished shopping, I went back to hotel happily with lots of useful?/useless? stuff on that night.


1. Kashbah de Taourirt, where the palace for the royal family in the past, but only empty rooms remains now.
Kashbah means the resident cluster area in the dessert? that is the definition we concluded from local people, but not so sure yet. We got much confirmed answer in Rissani a few days later after we did a few home visit.

2. Street of Jewish residents. (near to Kashbah de Taourirt)

3. The Atlas film studio and Oscar hotel, where a lot of famous actors was shooting film

4. Abu Simbel temple made by plastic and paper material. (inside Atlas film studio)

5. very sandy, sandy, all of the place, wrap my head like a arabic woman but still sand inside mouth and nose.

6. Funny toilet, until trip finish, still don't know which way is front.


7.A local bus stop. Bus journey from Quarzazate to Er-rachidia. see the Atlas snow montain at one side, dessert and green oasis at the other side, sometimes even rivers will jump out.

Marrakech, Morocco





The major color in Marrakech is pinkish, different degree of pink towards muddy. The color can be seen in buildings, sandy streets, paintings, etc, the only highlighted are orange trees dotted at the side of road. I was wondering why nobody pick up the orange since they looked big, tasty, full on the tree and almost bend to drop down, until I taste one, bitter and sour enough to kill an elephant, no wonder even bird doesn't bother touch them.


Marrakech in Churchill's eyes
-- please see Churchill's painting of Marrakech